Marjorie Turner Hollman helps authors self-publish their nonfiction books. She is also a disability advocate, sharing information about Easy Walks (not too many roots or rocks, relatively level with firm footing, and something of interest along the way) in open space. Learn more.
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Salisbury, Massachusetts offers a wonderful rail trail network that provides marsh views, woodland paths and an overlook of the Merrimack River. Our visit was on a perfect fall day, with little if any wind. Bright autumn colors glowed in the sunshine. We saw few other people using the trail, which surprised us, since we were there on a weekend.
I was gratified to spot the 10 MPH speed limit signs alongside the path. Many complain online about ebikes and that they should be banned. I usually suggest that instead, we need to focus on speed limits, which apply to all visitors on these rail trails. I would recommend that any stakeholders that oversee local rail trails consider posting speed limit signs. Slowing down is better for all of us, on or off our bikes.
Almost all the connected trails are paved. We began our outing after parking at Lions Park in Salisbury. From there we headed north to Seabrook, NH, then reversed course and set out in the other direction along the Marsh Trail.
After crossing a vast marsh that drains into the Merrimack River, we reached the banks of the river itself and found a defunct train bridge that once crossed into Newburyport. Bridge infrastructure remains, but fencing, and lack of trail surface on the bridge itself prevented us from reaching Newburyport that way.
For the intrepid traveler, a path underneath and then up onto the eastern side of the bridge built for car and truck traffic is the only way to cross the river (besides using a boat or swimming!). We chose to turn back at that point rather than ride next to the traffic crossing over the bridge.
We ventured onto an unpaved wooded path that connected with the trail network, which eventually took us into Amesbury and a busy road, where we turned around. An interpretive sign along this graveled section explained the origin of the so-named Ghost Trail.
It turned out that this has nothing to do with the paranormal. Instead, the name reflects the history of that area, where horse-drawn carriages were constructed, then transported on flatbed rail cars. Muslin was draped over the carriages to protect them during the journey—thus at night, these white, cloth- covered packages evoked images of ghosts as they rumbled along the tracks through the dark woods on their way to market.
Another facet of this history was that the manufacture of horse-drawn carriages morphed into the assembly of horse-less carriages—that is, automobiles. I am always curious about how manufacturing processes evolve. This was a intriguing example of a business adapting its production model from one product to a related one.
Along the unpaved Ghost Trail was a sign indicating that the adjacent solar farm was the largest in New England. I wonder if that’s still the case. The sign did not look new. The acres of solar panels were impressive, but still…
We had some daylight left after our bike ride so we headed over the bridge (in our truck) to Newburyport and took a walk at Plum Island National Wildlife refuge. We set out for a seaside walk on firm sand, with just enough time before sunset to take in the waves and the incoming tide. The entry to the first access point has mats that allow for handicapped access through the dunes to the waterline. The gate to this entry point was shut. It appeared that a storm had washed out a portion of the dune that supported the mat, potentially making it an unstable surface for those most likely to need the mat for support. A boardwalk is also available but the steps can provide a barrier to some visitors.
At the time of our visit the government was in shutdown, but entry gates were open and parking was available. In the fall at the beginning of hunting season the entire refuge is closed for several days. Be sure to check their website prior to visiting to confirm your ability to access the area.
River, ocean, marsh, and woodland. We were able to bicycle on our tandem, then stride alongside the shoreline, enjoying the ocean waves. While a longish drive for us from our home near Rhode Island, altogether we had a delightful trip. But then, most any time I can visit the beach or get on our tandem bike feels pretty wonderful in my world. Happy trails!
Marjorie
Marjorie Turner Hollman 