Marjorie Turner Hollman is an author, creator, observer, and disability advocate who loves the outdoors. Link to all Marjorie’s books.
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Choosing to travel to Canada when living in New England is not that big a challenge. On a recent trip we left from Massachusetts and headed for the Gaspé Peninsula in Quebec, and stopped at Grand Falls, New Brunswick (NB) on our way farther north. After studying our planned route, we decided to include Grand Falls as an incidental stop along the way to the Gaspé Peninsula. Sometimes the unplanned stops along the way can be the most rewarding. Grand Falls was the perfect start of our travels north, beyond the border of Maine and the U.S.
It was a day’s drive from Massachusetts to Grand Falls. If you live in Maine, it’s an even more manageable drive to what is North America’s third largest waterfall. (Only Niagara, and Montmorency Falls near Quebec City, Quebec, are larger.)
We crossed the border into Canada from Houlten, Maine, just an hour and a half north of Bangor, Maine. From there, Grand Falls is another hour or so north of the border crossing. We have traveled countless times up to Bangor, then the hour east to Acadia National Park. Only another hour or two north of Bangor, Grand Falls had never been on our radar, but it surely is now.
Once we arrived at the town of the same name, we quickly located the visitor center. We soon found ourselves standing in awe of the sights and sounds of Grand Falls and the cascades that continue beyond the initial cataract.
We visited in autumn when the river was quite low. In spring, water levels rise precipitously, obscureing much of the rocky underpinnings of this spectacular spot.
Fall allows visitors to study the jagged rocks hewn by the forces of nature as the St. John River forces its way through the gorge with a mighty roar.
Huge jumbles of trees snagged on rocks are visible reminders of the power of spring melt water that pushes its way through this spectacular gorge.
The area immediately surrounding the cataract is quite accessible. The visitor center is handicapped accessible. Large picture windows offer great views of the falls.
Zip line rides across the chasm are available, in season, for those of a strong constitution. (Not me!)
Ramps to viewing areas overlooking the gorge allow visitors to get outside for even better views. They also facilitate absorbing the power and the soundscape in the area, and for being sprayed by the mist, all part of the experience of visiting a massive waterfall.
Opposite the visitor center is an Easy Walk alongside the river. Benches invite visitors to stay awhile.
A monument stands next to the rocks and the dam, erected to commemorate the workers who died between 1926-28 building the hydro-power structure that crosses the river, which is an important source of energy for the region.
The Grand Trail, part of the Trans Canada Trail stretches from Grand Falls south to Woodstock, NB. It is a partially paved rail trail that follows the shoreline of the St. John River.
We pedaled upstream from the falls for several miles on our adaptive tandem bicycle. Just north of town, after crossing the bridge that straddles the river, the path turns from pavement to dirt. It also shifts away from the river and parallels the road. (It appears that the path used to stay closer to the river but was washed out by flooding, forcing the path to be relocated.) As the path became rougher we chose to turn around.
We set out in mid-September, at which time many campgrounds have already closed for the season. (Water lines for camp sites freeze and thus most campgrounds in cold weather areas close until warmer weather in the spring.) We were lucky enough to find a few campgrounds still open in each location where we planned to stay.
The St. John River flows past the Falls & Gorge Campground, which was still open and had a place for us to park our T@B camper. https://tourismnewbrunswick.ca/listing/falls-and-gorge-camping
A relatively Easy Walk loop trail, accessed directly from the campground, hugs the edge of the cliffs that overlook the river. The path was steep in several places; well-built stairs with railings made it manageable for me. The well-worn path provided safe footing. Sturdy fencing along the edge of the cliffs prevents visitors from tumbling over the edge to the river far below. Our timing was fortuitous. The campground closed the day after we left.
Grand Falls was only the first stop on our journey, but it was among the highlights of our entire trip. We found many more Easy Walks on our travels. Here’s to Grand Falls, worth visiting on its own, or as a rest stop on your way. Happy trails!
Marjorie
Marjorie Turner Hollman 